Tips on capturing hi-quality night time-lapse videos with your DSLR camera:

The Internet has many "how to" web sites on photography, with some pages detailing the process of making time-lapse videos/movies. The following Tips pages here take a closer look at the necessities for capturing remarkable time-lapse video in extreme low-light outdoor conditions. This helpful information is intended for experienced photographers who are very familiar with modern digital single-lens reflex (DSLR) camera systems.

The following may help fill-in some of the missing pieces for you, steer you away from traps and difficulties, and ultimately help take you to the next level in the process of creating wonderful motion imagery of night sky *landscapes and scenery.  Thad V'Soske
* Click image for choices:  Flash (SWF), Windows Media (WMV)

Lenses: Updated June 2012
Photographing night sky landscapes, like those found here on Cosmotions.com, will reveal just about every possible characteristic of a camera lens - good or bad. Sharpness, contrast, vignetting, chromatic aberration, flare, internal reflections, etc., will all become clearly evident. Your glass needs to be fast (f/2.8 or better) and high-quality. It's best to choose a system of lenses before choosing the camera. For example, Nikon lenses are not designed to work on Canon cameras, and visa versa. Adapters are made to mate different brands of equipment, but there are compromises in using them.

Prime lenses can offer the best overall combination of lens characteristics, but your bag-o-glass can be cumbersome and you'll find yourself changing lenses often or having to adjust your location for composition. You can certainly use zoom lenses, with fast high-end par-focal zooms being much preferred over those of lesser quality. Zooms are very convenient, but in almost all situations, you'll want the focal length to remain constant during your shoot.

Whether you choose fixed primes or zooms, or even a combination of both, you'll want a variety of lens focal lengths handy, from fisheye to long telephoto, in order to have complete flexibility in image composition - and to be prepared for unplanned opportunities. Note that those lenses that compensate for camera shake or motion (Canon "IS" lenses and Nikon "VR" lenses, for example) offer no practical advantage in nighttime still or time-lapse sequence photography. Also, note that auto focus is unreliable - if not useless - for low light subjects. Your lenses will need to be focused manually, which you'll have to do under very dark and often moonless skies. The pinpoint light from stars demands an accurate focus, which will be clearly revealed in your images. Focus takes patience and practice or an extremely well implemented camera 'live view' feature.

Front-heavy lenses that don't have a tripod-collar built into their design can present issues. The heavy Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L, for example, disproportionately shifts the center of gravity out in front of your camera, requiring extra rigidity and stability from your tripod system. The tripod collar on the heavy Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L, for example, provides a more center-weighted positioning of the camera/lens. A tripod collar feature not only helps balance the weight of your camera/lens combo but it makes for quick reorientations of your composition (portrait/landscape). Further, it keeps the camera/lens as center-balanced as practicable in any orientation. Other lens-related information can be found as you read further here. (continued...)

Custom Search

Copyright © Thad V'Soske - all rights reserved   ۞  Links   ۞  Contact   ۞  Subscribe
McAfee  Cosmotions is McAfee Tested  Tested